System Component Guide (SPG)  

In order to understand what may be a bottleneck to your system's performance, it is important to understand what each component in your system actually does. "Can I upgrade a Riva TNT video card to a Geforce GTX 280?" If you are asking yourself this kind of question, then this FAQ is for you! In case you're curious, a Riva TNT video card is roughly ten years old and uses a completely different slot than a GeForce GTX 280. "Slot? What is a slot?" Glad you asked!

What I'll do here first is explain each component in a brief description. There is no need to get into them in a huge amount of detail, though if you're interested in knowing more about them please feel free to inquire in our Technical Support Forums! The order in which I describe each component is based upon an order of importance from cost considerations to complexity in choices. This is essentially my recommendation for a purchase order when putting together a computer piece-by-piece. See the System Performance Guide for further information regarding current purchase deals and performance tuning tips!

Case (Enclosure)

While technically not the most important component in a PC in terms of stability, performance or even features, the case does determine what size of some of the components are allowed, so this is a primary consideration for a PC build, especially when looking to build or purchase a new PC you may wish to upgrade in the future.

There are three primary categories to consider when purchasing a computer case. In order of importance they are:

Form Factor (Size)

Form Factor is a term used to judge the component size and fit of Motherboards and other components in a system, in combination to case sizes. The following are the form factors and sizes you will want to consider. I am listing the form factor first and the overall case size label. You will notice there are two form factors and two case sizes.

ATX Full-Tower
Supports a full sized Motherboard (ATX). A very tall case that will fit anything and everything you could ever possibly need in a computer system. If you know you will be using SLI, Crossfire, five Hard Drives, and multiples of other components, AND won't be hauling this thing around too often, this is the type of case for you.

ATX Mid-Tower
Supports a full sized Motherboard (ATX). A smaller case that will fit one or two of just about everything you would need in a computer system. Even if you are using SLI, Crossfire, two Hard Drives, and a couple of DVD drives, while things will be cramped it should all fit well enough. Easier to haul around too!

Micro ATX Mid-Tower
Supports the smaller Micro ATX Motherboard (mATX). Slightly smaller than an ATX Mid-Tower, don't count on this supporting more than the basic components of a system. It has some room for decent cooling options and a couple of hard drives, but don't count on SLI or Crossfire setups. Just as easy as an ATX Mid-Tower to haul to around!

Micro ATX Mini-Tower
Supports the smaller Micro ATX Motherboard (mATX). Perfect for LAN parties if you want to hault around a computer that isn't a laptop but has some expandability and power to it. Again, even smaller than a Mid-Tower case, don't get carried away with multiple components here or super-cooling solutions either.

Materials

There are three materials to consider when choosing a computer case. Each one has benefits and drawbacks, and you will often find that computer cases will mix two or even all three of these. Considerations for all of these materials include: cost, weight, style and integrity.

Steel
Heavy but sturdy. If you don't plan to haul your ATX Full-Tower around but are worried that it might get bumped or is in a sensitive environment, a full steel case will be solid and won't feel like it will fall apart at the slightest touch. Did I mention they are heavy? My case is over forty pounds after all the components are installed!

Aluminum
My favorite material for a computer case. Light yet sturdy IF you don't go too cheap in the cost department! As long as the case isn't $25, you will probably get a good thickness on the aluminum that will maintain integrity yet keep weight down much lower than a steel case. It's also more stylish too!

Plastic
Just about the opposite of steel. Light but incredibly flimsy and most definitely not a case you would want to carry around with you on a regular basis, as light as some of them may be. Fortunately, most cases are primarily either steel or aluminum, only using plastic in secondary elements.

Efficiency

Larger cases will provide more opportunity to increase efficiency of cooling and component spacing than smaller cases. Consider the following component sizes and their usual fit into certain cases when you want to cool a system or keep things spaced out for easy replacement, or to simply help keep things quieter!

Slot Count
How many slots or placements exist for each component? Larger cases will have more, and more in the efficiency department is almost always better! Just be careful that when placing a bunch of fans in your system that you do not create "vacuums", which are areas where airflow is dead due to fans competing for airflow. More fans than necessary can cause this, so don't go overboard.

Case Fans
The most common fan size is 80mm, which will fit into any case size listed here (thought check specific case choices just to be sure). The second most common, but highly recommended is the 120mm case fan. Larger but much quieter per fan speed rotation than its 80mm counterpart. Buy 120mm whenever possible! Large cases should only need 2 or 3 120mm fans at most, while the smaller cases can do with 1 120mm and 1 80mm.

Cables
Strap tie all those cables together! Buy round cables for your older IDE connections will help as well. Cables can be one of the largest bottlenecks in cooling efficiency, especially in smaller cases that don't have a lot of room for airflow.

Berek's Case Recommendation

Mid-Tower Steel/Aluminum mix w/OUT a PSU (choose separately) with 120mm cooling fan support

Motherboard (Mainboard)

The Motherboard is the "spinal cord" of sorts for your entire computer. Without the motherboard you would not be able to install, well, anything! While the CPU may be the brains of a system and the Case is the bone structure that keeps it all together, the Motherboard is the spinal cord linking everything together electronically.

Deciding which Motherboard to purchase will also force you to decide a certain type of CPU (AMD or Intel), what type of Video Card (AMD/ATI or NVIDIA), the maximum allowed RAM, how many USB connections exist for peripheral such as Mice or Keyboards, and even how far you can push your system in terms of overall performance.

As mentioned in the Case section above, the Form Factor of a Motherboard will determine the limit on how many things can be connected to your computer. I will list out the overall limits and potential for the two primary form factors, ATX and Mini ATX (mATX).

AMD or Intel

The very first consideration over all others when purchasing a Motherboard is to know whether you will be purchasing for AMD or Intel. While there are always "Fan Boys" that insist their choice is better, it really boils down to what you want and need. AMD is often cheaper and usually not the performance leader, while Intel is a bit more expensive but has components that will push the very limits of performance. Choosing will determine what Motherboard and CPU you choose. Both AMD and Intel have ATX and mATX Motherboard solutions.

Be warned SLI and Crossfire potential owners, for choosing an AMD or Intel Motherboard may also force you to consider only one of these multi-GPU solutions. Intel typically only supports Nvidia Chipsets, the processors on the Motherboard that work with the CPU, while AMD Motherboards offer a bit more flexibility but still usually only have Crossfire support.

Form Factor (Size)

Baby, mini, full, half, quarter... well, some of those are true Form Factors for Motherboards anyway. The point is that there are a lot of choices, but only two standard ones you will encounter. The difference that goes along with size is the amount of redundancy, where you'll find two or more PCI slots on an ATX vs. just one or two on a mATX Motherboard. Naturally, the size of a Motherboard will determine how well it will fit into a Case.

A good rule of thumb to remember is that smaller things fit better into larger things, but larger things definitely do not fit well into smaller things. Mid-Tower or Full-Tower cases will fit mATX Motherboards, but Mini-Tower Cases will not fit ATX.

ATX Form Factor
This is the mother of all Motherboard form factors, pun intended. This form factor will allow you to purchase multiple Video Cards to run in SLI or Crossfire modes, add multiple add-on cards for networking, sound, and even cards that support more USB or SATA ports. While this form factor really isn't needed for most, if you are purchasing a Full Tower case and know you'll have multiple Hard Drives, DVD-ROMs and a bunch of other system components, ATX is the way to go.

Micro ATX (mATX) Form Factor
Naturally smaller than the ATX Form Factor, this one will really do just about everything almost anyone would need. A regular user doesn't need a Full Tower case, and won't need an ATX Motherboard either. Plan on only have two Hard Drives at most, a DVD-ROM, and just one of each other component? Than a mATX Motherboard combined with a Mid-Tower or even Mini Tower will do.

Berek's Motherboard Recommendations

• AMD AM2+/AM2 series with DDR2 memory support
• INTEL P43 or P45 series with DDR2 memory support

CPU (Processor)

The CPU, a.k.a. Central Processing Unit is the "brain" of your computer. Everything that requires linear computations will go through this little square chip. Guess where it goes too? That's right, it is installed in a special Socket on the Motherboard.

The CPU will determine how fast your operating system runs daily tasks, as well as some upper limits on the speed of games. This was actually a tough call to put here in priority wise of other components, because when it comes down to it the CPU isn't the most important component for games after considering a Case and Motherboard. The reason the CPU is listed here first is due to its relationship with AMD or Intel as mentioned above. Choosing a side for your Motherboard determines the CPU, so we must choose that next.

AMD or Intel

AMD is known for their lower cost and lower performance options, such as the triple-core Phenoms. They perform well and will do anything a gamer asks of them at a decent price. When it comes to bleeding edge performance, future-proofing, and compatibility, Intel wins this game. My recommendation is to choose Intel for a Motherboard and CPU, unless you're on a serious budget.

There are many other things about a CPU that can be considered, from Cache, nm size, GHz speed, and others. For the average gamer playing MMOs there are really only two important things to consider after choosing AMD or Intel, speed and core count, and both are quickly becoming an insignificant choice.

Core Count

Until a few years ago CPUs consisted of only one Core, which meant they only had one entire brain on the chip installed in the Socket on the Motherboard. Now CPUs can have multiple cores, with 2, 4 and sometimes even more. Think of a 2 core, a.k.a Dual Core CPU as a brain having two hemispheres, both connected via the Corpus Callosum in the brains case.

Most CPUs today consist of two cores, and these are the CPUs you will want to focus on. Single core CPUs are history and won't benefit you anymore. What about 4 core, a.k.a. Quad Core CPUs? While it may surprise you, more cores are not always better. The problem occurs when programs have to deal with these multiple cores. Most programs today can deal with two cores just fine. Programming elements to go left or right when they must be given a choice over cores is simpler.

Having three or more forks in the road makes things much more complex. You can't simply throw a program at a Quad Core CPU and expect it to divvy out all of its processes evenly on all cores without some imbalance or inefficiency occurring. Which is why Quad Cores are currently not a candidate choice for gamers. GPUs are where games are all about, so stick with Dual Core CPUs, for now.

Some of the applications that Quad Core CPUs are good for: Photoshop, 3DS Max, Video Editing, Encoding, and other computational heavy tasks. Expect in 2010 and beyond to be the reign of Quad Core+ CPUs that are useful for gamers.

Speed

This is a much simpler choice. The higher the GHz rating on the same line of CPUs the faster it will perform. However, there is a catch when considering speed before Core Count or AMD vs. Intel choices. Intel is usually faster when considering Core Count and Clock Speed together, but also more expensive to compensate for that extra speed.

When considering Dual Core vs Quad Core for speed, remember what I said in the Core Count section above in terms of efficiency and programmers knowing how to program to allow programs to take full advantage of more than two cores. Per GHz rating, a Dual Core CPU will almost always be faster for games and many general-use applications than a Quad Core.

Let's assume you'll choose a Dual Core CPU. For games or almost any program the "sweet spot" GHz speed rating would be between 2GHz to 3GHz. Anything more and you will receive increasingly diminishing returns. Those "Extreme" CPUs simply are not worth it, don't waste your money! For example, the best deal for a gamer today if they are at all serious about their computer systems is an Intel E8400 3GHz CPU. This CPU provides more horsepower than is even necessary, but for the price it's worth it!

Cooling

The CPU requires intense cooling measures in order not to spontaneously combust in a fiery inferno inside your machine, likely taking with it everything else. A spectacular sight to be sure but not worth the money, trust me.

While cooling your CPU has become more complex in recent years, there have been efforts to make this less of a burden on system builders. For most of you I would recommend just sticking with the stock coolers that are already in place when purchasing a CPU. They are designed specifically for that CPU and come under its warranty. Just be sure when choosing a CPU from a store that it is "Retail", which includes the cooling solution. "OEM" CPUs do not!

Berek's CPU Recommendations

• AMD Phenom 8450 Toliman 2.1GHz
• INTEL Penryn E8400 3GHz

Video Card (Graphics)

This is where the "meat and potatoes" of your system lies when speed in games is a priority. There is simply no other component that should require as much attention and investment for pure raw horsepower. An Extreme Quad Core CPU investment might be worthwhile for other tasks, but not for games. That is the domain of the GPU.

Watch terminology when in stores and talking with friends about your graphics hardware in your system. A "GPU" is a Graphics Processing Unit, which could be a Video Card OR an on-board solution. On-board solutions are graphics processors built right into the Motherboard, so you don't have to purchase a separate solution. Don't expect them to be all that efficient for the latest games as they are quite limited. You want that dedicated Video Card solution!

AMD/ATI or NVIDIA

As mentioned above in the Motherboard section, be careful when choosing a Video Card when considering SLI or Crossfire solutions! An AMD/ATI multi-GPU solution is called Crossfire and will often only work in AMD based motherboards, where NVIDIA multi-GPU solutions work in Intel based Motherboards. There are some exceptions in certain cases, but this is the general rule-of-thumb.

Model Number

After choosing either AMD/ATI or NVIDIA, the next thing to consider is the speed of the Video Card. Naturally, the newer generations will be faster than older generations (most of the time), so when looking at lists on sites like Newegg, choose 9xxx over selections like 8xxx, 7xxx, etc. However, naming schemes often shift, so while this may apply in a series like this it doesn't necessarily apply if the series is completely different.

An 8800 will be faster than an 8600 or an 8400, and so on. Usually when looking at a series you will find three or four solutions. The higher than number is almost always the faster solution (and more expensive one). For the average user the middle solution or second from the top is the best. You don't need bleeding edge, even if the GPU is the most important component in a your system. At the same time you certainly don't want that "8400" last of the lot either.

Memory Size

Don't be fooled by cheap Video Cards in B&M (Brick n' Mortor) stores like Best Buy that sell video cards with 1GB of memory on-board and only cost $100. Memory size isn't everything! Even high-end video cards don't need 1GB right now, let alone these cheap versions. What manufacturers will often do is add slower, cheaper memory in larger quantities to excite users into thinking they are better than 512MB or other versions. But they often are not!

Right now 512MB is sufficient for any game out on most users systems. Unless you are running a 30" monitor with SLI or Crossfire on games like Crysis, then you may want to consider a Video Card with more than 512MB.

Read the following article for a detailed look into the history of the GPU and what it is really all about: An overview of the GPU

Berek's Video Card Recommendations

• ATI: Radeon 4850 512MB
• NVIDIA: GeForce 9800GTX 512MB

Power Supply (PSU)

Above all else, when choosing quality over quantity or performance or any other consideration you want to be sure that your Power Supply (PSU) is at the top of the quality list. For example, two years ago I purchased a Mid-Tower Case that came with a 400watt PSU, all for $35. I thought this was a real bargain at the time, considering 400watt PSUs, good ones, can easily surpass $35 by themselves. I plugged the system in and the PSU burnt out within 20 minutes!

If you skimp on purchasing a quality PSU thinking you'll save money, it make in fact cost you an entire system if that PSU becomes unstable and not only burns itself out but takes a component or two with it. This doesn't usually happen, but it definitely can happen the lower quality the PSU you use. Even if it does function, instabilities such as random system resets or shutdowns may occur.

There are three main considerations when purchasing a PSU: Power Potential, Brand, Modularity.

Power Potential

Much like the 1GB memory installed on Video Cards that only really should have 512MB or even 256MB, Power Supply companies are tricking the consumer into thinking that a 1000watt Power Supply is somehow better than a 500watt, when your system is really only ever hitting 300watts max. More power does not mean faster, it only means more potential so you can fit more in your system without it overloading.

Thus, consider a Power Supply in the 500-700watt range for any of you general system needs. ONLY consider one over 700watts if you are running dual-GPU configurations in a SLI or Crossfire setup and/or have five Hard Drives, multiple DVD-ROMs and who knows what else in your system that may take extreme amounts of power. While you definitely don't want to cut short your needs with a 250watt PSU, don't waste your money on quantity if it's not needed, only quality!

Brand Consideration

PSUs are one of the few components where Brand really matters. Here is a tip to gauge the overall quality and reliability of a brand of PSUs. Simply pick one up (if you are physical with them) and feel how heavy it is. Is the company advertising a 1000watt PSU that feels like a feather, or does it have some serious weight to it? While this isn't a set decision maker, if it feels like a feather you may want to double check its reliability.

Consider the following brands after selecting a PSU wattage, then fan cooling size and modularity considerations last:

• PC Power & Cooling
• Enermax
• Antec
• OCZ
• Thermaltake

Modular PSUs

If you will be purchasing a PSU for a small case, a Modular PSU may be a consideration. I mentioned earlier in the Case section how airflow can be severely impeded with lose cables hanging everywhere. Modular PSUs allow you to plug in each power cable, where standard PSUs have everything hanging out permanently attached to their back end, whether you need them or not. Any unused cables have to be stuffed somewhere and that takes up room.

The only two problems with Modular PSUs is they're usually more expensive than their standard counter-parts, and their lifetime may be lower as well. Whenever there are connections that are plugged or unplugged it creates the potential for something to snap off and break. If you do purchase a Modular PSU take care and don't frequently plug and unplug the cables (not that you should ever have to do this)!

Berek's PSU Recommendations

(Any brand above) 500-700watts, SINGLE 12v rail, 120mm cooling fan

Hard Drive (Storage)

Hard drives are the storage medium for your computer, the place you put photos, videos, documents, and of course games! The larger in capacity the more you will be able to fit onto these devices. Thankfully the Hard Drive is where component purchases begin to become easier, as there are only a few things to consider. The first being its physical size, which determines what kind of device it will reside in.

Brands & Types

Since the beginning of the personal computer hard drives were rectangular shaped devices that had spinning disks in them with tiny needles hovering over that magnetically recorded information on them. Just think of a record player and the very basic physical concept is the same. While this is the type of drive you will purchase with a computer system today, it is worth noting that in the next few years "SSDs", which stands for "Solid State Drives" will supersede mechanical devices. But not today.

There are three form factors (physical sizes) for hard drives: 3.5", 2.5", 1.8". Each of these corresponds to a general use category. 1.8" are suited for USB or small laptops, 2.5" for mainstream laptops, and 3.5" for the standard drive found in a desktop PC, which is probably what you're using right now. Naturally, the larger the size the more power it uses and the more capacity in terms of data it can hold.

When choosing a brand I would recommend either of the following:

• Western Digital
• Seagate
• Samsung
• Maxtor
• Toshiba
• Fujistu

Visiting sites like Newegg.com will typically only display these types of brands anyway, but it's worth pointing them out so you don't buy some mysterious brand no one has ever heard of. There are only so many actual manufacturers anyway, so any Hard Drive almost certainly comes from one of the six listed here.

Performance

Hard drives are the slowest component in your system, so if you don't purchase a good hard drive it won't matter in many cases how fast the processor is when transferring files or playing back HD content, it will slow you entire system down. Thus, it is important to purchase a hard drive that is as fast as reasonably possible. I say reasonably because there are really fast hard drives out there right now but cost thousands of dollars, so there is obviously a limit.

The main four speeds you will see in most consumer hard drives are: 4200rpm, 5400rpm, 7200rpm, and 10000rpm. RPM stands for Revolutions-Per-Minute, as the Hard Drive storage component is a spinning, mechanical device. Which brings up the point of noise. Some hard drives are quieter than others, but the general rule of thumb over a given series is the faster the drive the more noise it is going to make.

7200rpm hard drives are the primary 3.5" desktop speed you will want to look at. 4200rpm are rapidly disappearing, so I wouldn't worry about bumping into these except in really small laptops. 5400rpm are simply too slow for mainstream desktop systems, and the 10000rpm hard drives generally have price and capacity restraints, although some may be considered if you really want to spend the extra for them.

Capacity

Speed really shouldn't be a consideration anymore as 7200rpm is the standard choice, so capacity is really your focus and that is more of a personal preference than anything else. There are considerations in how much information is packed on the devices in a given square inch of space, which will determine to a point the performance, but in general you won't notice the difference.

Hard drives between the 500GB-750GB capacity right now are the best buys for your money. Purchasing anything lower than this isn't worth the money because there is a price floor you hit around the $50 point. Deciding for a 1TB or even the newer 1.5TB sounds nice, but only a few of you really will need this capacity. Right now the best drive is hands down the Western Digital Caviar 640GB. Easy decision here!

Berek's Hard Drive Recommendations

• Desktop: Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB (3.5")
• Laptop: Western Digital Caviar Black 320GB (2.5")

Optical Drive (DVD-ROM)

This is the device that you will use most often when loading a disc from a game box you purchased. If it's like an MMO, the disc may not need to be inserted for each gameplay session. If it's like a lot of other types of PC games you will be using the Optical Drive every time you play the game.

Even simpler in choice than a Hard Drive, the Optical Drive is rather limited in terms of choices these days. There are casual differences that are more personal preferences, such as noise control, whether the drive uses Lightscribe technology, and of course the price. High definition Blu-ray drives for the PC aren't worth it yet, so don't consider these and don't consider older CD-ROM drives either. DVD is the mainstream and that isn't going to change for awhile.

A few years ago you had to make the choice of DVD+R, DVD-R, DVD-RAM... it made a lot of headaches out of what should have been a simple choice. Fortunately today these drive technologies are usually combined onto one device, so you don't need to worry about whether your drive is + or - or ,.&* or any other silly indicator! 22x DVD drivers are currently the fastest on the market, but 20x or even 12x will due just fine. Consider noise, cost, and other features before anything else, though focusing on a specific brand is never bad idea, just don't always make it the first priority.

Berek's Optical Drive Recommendation

(Any name brand) 22x DVD+R SATA - OEM (You don't need all the fancy retail packaging if you can avoid it)

Memory (RAM)

Memory are rectangular "sticks" that insert into your Motherboard much like the CPU or any "Card" mentioned above. They have their own specific slots and usually are bought in pairs (for performance benefits). This is NOT your Hard Drive. Think of the Hard Drive as the basement or attic of a house. It is where you put all your junk for long-term storage that you intend never to really use again but think you will just in case... Memory is the small closet on the main floor where things will go for awhile but eventually things are moved in and out of this closet, as it really is meant only for quick access and temporary storage. Faster and more convenient, but not as spacious or permanent as that basement or attic.

I mentioned that components were getting easier to choose... I spoke to soon. Memory might just be the one most confusing components you will have to deal with when upgrading or purchasing a system. The reason behind this is mainly in memories sensitivity to what Motherboard it is used in, how the CPU will react to it, and how far it is pushed when the system is under heavy processing load. Memory is easy to install in a system, as the slots are right on the Motherboard and there is usually no setup required afterward, but if you install the wrong stuff (which sometimes is impossible given the physicality of the slot itself) bad things can happen.

Choosing the right kind of memory starts with the Motherboard. Each Motherboard has a specific standard range in what memory it supports, so as long as you've already chosen a Motherboard you can do a little research to decide what is needed after this. It really isn't that difficult though, as most Motherboards state very clearly what memory they support, and most of the range is standardized to a few different types and speeds in today's systems. It may only become a tricky choice if you have a system several years old that you want to upgrade today.

Memory Type

There are years worth of memory types out there, but the ones you will have any concern for are the following three main types: DDR, DDR2, and DDR3.

DDR2 is the major standard today and where the best bang for your buck is when considering which Motherboard to choose based on what memory technology it supports. DDR is disappearing fast, and while DDR3 is the wave of the future it still is a bit high in price and support is just beginning to ramp up. Expect DDR3 as the mainstream choice in the 2nd half of 2009 and beyond.

Another type is the size or type of device the memory is meant for, which falls into two categories, desktop or laptop memory.

Desktop memory is either 168, 184, or 240 Pin, which recognizes all the little gold plate connectors you see when viewing a Memory Module. DDR2 and DDR3 are 240 Pin modules. Laptop memory is either in 104, 200, or 204 Pin configurations. DDR2 memory for a laptop sits at 200. This is all part of the design and the memories potential, but also partly to help prevent users from simply inserting incompatible modules into their Motherboard memory slots.

Memory Speed

As with the memory type Motherboards will often post what type of memory speed they support. This is usually done with the MHz notation with DDR to DDR3, and as you can guess the higher DDR technology the higher the MHz rate tends to become. DDR had standards of 266 to 550Mhz, DDR2 sits at 400 to 900MHz, while DDR3 goes from 1006 all the way to 2133MHz! Almost any Motherboard I recommend today supports the DDR2 800-1066MHz standard, with DDR2 800MHz being the best bang for your buck.

Another component of speed is the CAS rating, known as CAS latency. This isn't really a concern to all but the most extreme Overclocking gurus, so if you see this rating don't give it a thought other than price comparisons. DDR2 800Mhz will have an optimal speed rating of either CAS 3, 2.5, or 2. Naturally, CAS 2 parts will be a bit more expensive than CAS 3, so just go with CAS 3.

Berek's Memory Recommendations

• Desktop: (Any name brand) DDR2 800MHz CAS 3 in a 2x2 (4GB total) configuration (DIMM)
• Desktop: (Any name brand) DDR3 1333MHz CAS 7 in a 2x2 (4GB total) configuration (DIMM)
• Laptop: (Any name brand) DDR2 800MHz CAS 3 in a 2x2 (4GB total) configuration (SODIMM)

Display (Monitor)

While not the most important component by far in terms of performance, the quality component of your gaming experience certainly does place the monitor at the forefront before anything else. The Video Card will make your games run faster and every generation makes them look visually better with newer technologies like DirectX 10. However, if your monitor, the display you are staring at right now, is ten years old and missing a color component you likely aren't getting the full potential of your gaming experience.

The greatest thing about displays is there longevity. While video cards and other component may need upgrading every year or two if you wish to keep up with the technology curve, displays can be over five years old if they're still in good condition and give you excellent image quality on hardware bought just yesterday. Spend the money on a good display and you won't be disappointed. Having said that, what are the choices and what should you be looking for to ensure longevity and future-proofing?

Display Types

Up until the last five years or so there has only been one major display technology that has existed in the home, whether it was for your computer or television. That is the Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) display technology. The reason that your television or computer screen of this type are so bulky is because of the distance from the source projector to the screen itself inside of their casing. The glass and other components make up the rest of the weight. Combined together it is a bulky technology but still even today produces quality images.

The primary reason CRTs are disappearing fast is these quantitative properties of weight, space, and other overall inconveniences. Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) technology is the new kid on the block that you probably are using today for your computer monitor. While the quality of the image is finally approaching that of CRT displays, the sheer advantages in weight and desk space reduction make the LCD a clear winner. Actually, LCD technology has been around for a long time, but only has matured in the past 5-7 years to become any sort of competitor.

There are other technologies out there such as Plasma displays that are made primarily for your television, as well as upcoming Organic Light Emitting Diode (OLED) technologies for your computer screen that are designed to supersede LCDs, but on the whole we won't see LCDs disappearing like the CRT for at least another five years. Even then the overall shape and design of a display will remain as it is today, flat and lightweight. Don't bother buying a CRT and instead focus on an LCD, but which one to choose?

LCD Types

There are three primary LCD types that are available to consumers and ones you definitely will want to know about if you care what quality image your LCD ultimately will produce, and naturally what price it will cost for that quality experience. I will start with the most expensive and quality focused LCD type and go to the cheapest but probably most appropriate for the average user.

IPS Type

IPS (In Plane Switching) panels are generally considered the best overall LCD technology for image quality, color accuracy and viewing angles, but this comes at a price. They are well suited for graphics design and other applications which require accurate and consistent color reproduction. S-IPS panels offer the best viewing angles of any current LCD technology, with wide viewing angles up to 178 degrees. The response time of S-IPS is adequate, ranging from 6ms to 16ms with current panels.

VA Type

VA (Vertical Alignment) panels such as S-PVA/MVA are middle of the road LCD panels. They offer better color reproduction and wider viewing angles than TN panels, but have slower response times. They are very similar to S-IPS technology wise. They also offer large viewing angles and good color reproduction, though not as good as S-IPS. There have been reports of a few panels that suffer from input lag, so VA technology may not be the best choice for FPS gamers.

VA panels have the advantage of higher contrast ratios compared to other panel types, which leads to better black levels. The biggest disadvantage of VA based panels is color shifting. Color shifting is when the image viewed from one angle changes or "shifts" when viewed from a slightly different angle, making various uneven brightness levels across the display.

TN Type

TN (Twisted Nematic) panels are the most widely used panel type as they are cheap and offer excellent response times, making them perfect for fast paced gaming. The response times of current TN panels range from 2ms to 5ms. However, color reproduction, viewing angles and contrast ratios of TN panels are the worst of any LCD panel technology. Unlike most 8-bit S-IPS/S-PVA/MVA panels, TN panels are only 6-bit and unable to display the full 16.7 million colors available in 24-bit true color. They can mimic the 16.7 million colors of 8-bit panels using a technique called dithering, but the results are less than stellar.

TN panels have become popular with the average user because they are very inexpensive. They are also the only panels currently being used in 22" Widescreen Monitors, which is the size screen that I recommend to most users. Having a good monitor is important, so I still strongly recommend VA Type panels, but the problem is they are not made at the 22" size, only 24" and up. So while TN technology has some drawbacks, The 22" TN configuration is optimal for most users as it simply has the best out of all choices. Though if you can spend $400+ on a 24" monitor, the investment won't disappoint you!

LCD Sizes

If you think that a 17" CRT has the same physical viewing area as a 17" LCD you would be wrong. Which one has more than the other? A CRT has a 4:3 display ratio, while an LCD has a 16:10 (currently). Mathematics quickly tells you that a more square dimension will result in more overall surface area, thus the CRT wins. This is how companies gimmick users into thinking they are getting a really good deal on a 17" upgrade from their 17" CRT. Well, they are in all things except viewing area.

Common sizes today range from 17" to beasts at 30", which almost qualify as a television more-so than a monitor for a computer! There are those televisions based on LCD technology that go far beyond this, but for now we're focusing on displays exclusively for your computer. While you may want that 30" screen, stop for a moment and think about what exactly it is you will be doing with it and where it is going to go.

Since you're reading this article it is safe to assume you will be playing some games on it, so a larger screen will give you a better experience for this. The larger the screen will also allow you to place more documents and program interfaces on it without them overlapping. All-in-all the larger the screen the better, except for three crucial elements that may ward you from purchasing a 30" beast.

1) Desk space: How close are you going to be to the monitor and how much space does your desk have? If you're in cramped quarters, think again about a 30" and go for a 20 or 22" instead, especially if you want to watch movies or play games for extended periods of time.

2) Performance: While you can lower resolutions and quality settings for larger screens that have higher base resolutions, they frankly look like crap. LCDs are best when programs like movies or games are run at their native resolution. The downside to this is they require a lot more graphics horsepower. 30" monitors that drive the latest games may even require SLI or Crossfire configurations, which brings me to 3).

3) Cost: 30" monitors will run you well over $1k for good ones, not to mention the extra Video Card you may need to run the system in SLI or Crossfire, while a decent 22" will run you just $200-300, and even 24" can go as low as $400. If cost is any consideration to you whatsoever, 30" are not worth it!

Berek's Monitor Recommendations

• For the budget-minded: SAMSUNG 2253BW Black 22" LCD (~$200)
• For the quality-minded: Dell 2408WFP 24" LCD (~$600)

Sound Solutions

While most can agree that sound isn't as detailed or specific as visual quality can often be, sound is just as important to a game, if not even more so than the visual aspect. Sounds of nature, music, ambience, etc., all combine to help expand our emotional attachment to whatever we're watching. Fortunately, sound choices in the computer world for the average gamer are relatively simple.

Before anything else, you need to understand the overall area and dimensions of where your computer will be, including who will be living with you. Do you have room for a full 7.1 surround sound system with bass speakers that shake every floor? Or will it be in an office where your only choice is a headset?

The next thing to decide is the quality of the sound. While full 7.1 surround sound systems will obviously be more capable than a headset, some are more picky than others on what quality they expect out of their sound experience. For the average consumer it doesn't really matter in today's choices, so I'll focus on these basic choices exclusively, leaving the audiophiles to their own expertise.

On-board Sound

This really is the solution to go with nowadays, as Onboard sound today offers decent quality and will even support your 7.1 surround sound speaker solutions. When purchasing a Motherboard look at the sound options available and if they suit your taste for 4.1, 5.1 or just 2.0 speakers, then you're set in the sound source department!

Sound Cards

If you want to go higher in quality than most Onboard sound provides, allowing for more features that full 7.1 surround sound systems support, then a separate card you insert, much like your Video Card, will be required. Creative Labs is currently the leader in quality sound card solutions, but be careful that you don't get carried away with "Premium" options, as often you don't need their high end solution to get high end sound. Asus is a rising competitor in this field as well.

As for the dimensions and what to look for, it really boils down to your preferences, but if you want some direction I've offered my recommendation below.

USB Sound Solutions

While not technology a Sound Card or certainly an Onboard solution, you may consider USB plug-in sound solutions if you have a difficult or impossible ability to upgrade your system. This especially applies to laptops where the sound is almost always Built-in but offers inferior quality and features than what you want.

There are actually some good choices out there when upgrading through a USB solution. Creative Labs as well as Turtle Beach Systems are excellent brands to consider.

Speakers & Headsets

After considering the surrounding desk and living space where your computer is located, speakers become a major decision after the sound device itself is chosen. I find Klipsche speakers to be one of the highest quality speakers one can buy right now. Just a decent 2.1 setup from Klipsch will surprise you on how deep and rich the sound is produced, especially when a massive PvP battle takes place in your favorite MMO. They are a bit expensive, so if you decide not to go with Klipsch, Logitech and other name brands will offer you acceptable sound quality.

Even though I have some excellent speakers I often use when no one else is around, I find I put on my headset from Sony more often. This is to keep complaints from my neighbors down, but also because sometimes a good quality headset can fill your sound field more completely than directional speakers can. Klipsch, Sony, and a few other name brands will produce quality headsets. Just don't think you'll be getting great sound from a free headset in a gaming box as some companies have introduced...

Berek's Sound Recommendations

• Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster SB0570 7.1
• Sound (USB): Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Micro Virtual 5.1
• Standup Speakers: Klipsch, Sony, JCL
• Desktop Speakers: Klipsch, Logitech
• Headset w/out Mic: Sony MDR-V6
• Headset w/Mic: Creative FATAL1TY Circumaural Gaming Headset

Network Solutions

It amazes me how many choices we have sometimes. Even though an average network configuration will be fairly basic, hundreds of products exist claiming to boost network capacity and speed, when most of them aren't even needed or really do what they advertise. For starters, almost all Motherboards come with one or even two network interfaces, so don't bother buying a card! It's not needed for the vast majority of you.

The only thing you need to really focus on for the interface component to your computer is the speed. Currently there are three speeds offered on network interfaces for the average user: 10mbit, 100mbit, and 1000mbit. The vast majority will be using 100mbit, which is also found in most laptops. The transition to 1000mbit is happening but its taking time, and really isn't needed unless you plan on transferring huge files on a daily basis between multiple computers.

A little secret: Internet speeds currently run even below the 10mbit Network speed! So don't go buying 1000mbit devices thinking it will help your Internet speed somehow, as it won't.

NIC (Network Interface Card)

There are a few situations where you may want to purchase a NIC (Network Interface Card). Much like someone's need for a separate Sound Card solution, NICs will provide options, most often speed and stability beyond that of an Onboard solution. This allows you the potential to upgrade without having to upgrade your entire Motherboard.

While new Motherboards are coming with 1000mbit connections, most existing ones are still using 100mbit. If you want to upgrade to 1000mbit to transfer files faster between computers, purchasing separate cards is your least expensive option. Currently Intel's PWLA8391GT PCI PRO/GT NIC is hands-down the best available, and it's only $20 or so! Intel provides the best NICs due to their stability, performance, and consistent driver updates.

Routers, Switches, Cables

Now comes the part where you connect that NIC or onboard network interface on your Motherboard to the Internet. What if you have two or more computers in your house you wish to connect to the Internet? That Cable Modem or ADSL Box has only one jack for a single computer. This is where Routers and Switches come into use. Even if you only have one computer, it is not a bad idea to purchase at least a Router, as I'll explain why below.

Routers

Routers are an external device that connects your computer to either a Switch or directly to the Cable Modem or ADSL device. The Routers primary job is to establish security to your home network. Software built into the router has powerful tools to prevent certain network connections to be made, and prevent either incoming and/or outgoing network traffic. The secondary function of a Router is to provide additional connections beyond just one device.

Unless you're like me with over five computers in your home, a Router will almost certainly be sufficient to provide for all of your Internet needs beyond the computer itself and the Cable Modem or ADSL device that connects to the Internet. Routers typically have only 4 ports on the back to connect devices. Typical homes may connect like this:

Port 1: Computer, Port 2: Computer, Port 3: Computer, Port 4: Xbox, PS3, TV, etc...

"Four ports? I just looked at mine and I see five, you're wrong Berek!" Well, technically they have five but the fifth is called a WAN Port. This is where you would connect the Cable Modem or ADSL device, or potentially a Switch.

With Wireless Routers you can connect any number of devices beyond this 4-port limit, so you technically don't need a Switch or expansion device if all you have are wireless capable computers. Just don't expect wireless transfer speeds to be 1000mbit. Wired is always faster when transfering data between computers, and that won't change for some time.

Switches

Before there were Switches there were Hubs. They are the same thing except Switches are much 'smarter'. Look at it this way, hubs are the intersections of roadways with stoplights and other traffic controls. In order for traffic to cross each other one must stop for a time. The more traffic the more the bottleneck and everyone loses. Switches are like dedicated highway systems to each vehicle. It may actually work if we had flying personal vehicles, but impossible on the ground.

Switches look much like Routers, except in the case where you have a Wireless Router with antennas sticking out of it. This is where the LAN parties can really get started, as Switches will often have anywhere from 4 ports all the way to 48 or more! Keep connecting computers until you have no more ports to spare (although my personal recommendation at this point is to label each end of your cables so you know where they're going!).

Cables

The only cable you should use for connecting your Cable Modem or ADSL device to everything else is a 'Cat 6' Network Cable. Previous iterations such as Cat 5 or 5e are meant for 100mbit or slower connections, as well for shorter distances (not that anyone plans on stringing 100meter cables... are you?). Cat 6 Network Cable provides specifications and compatibilities with full 1000mbit connections.

While you could buy a spool of cable and ends and make the individual cables yourself, unless you know how to do this I really wouldn't bother. However, do NOT buy cables from Best Buy or any sort of 'Elite' Monster Cable manufacturer. "Our cables are Premium, Gold, stretch fifteen times their length, come in all sorts of colors and will do this or that..." is a gimmick marketing pull and not at all worth buying something like $50 cables over just as good $7.99 ones. Go online to sites like newegg.com or monoprice.com for any of your cable needs, not just for networking purposes.

A Full Network Setup

This is how a full network setup may look like:

Internet cable/port from outside > Internet device (Cable Modem or ADSL device) > Router's WAN port > Router 1-4 port to Switch > Switch (and/or other 1-4 Router ports) to computer devices throughout the building. Wireless devices interface directly with the Wireless Router, as one would naturally assume.

Berek's Network Recommendations

• NICs: Intel's PWLA8391GT PCI PRO/GT NIC
• Router: LINKSYS WRT54GL Wireless-G Router
• Switch: D-Link DGS-2208 8-Port Switch
• Cable: Any CAT 6 rated pre-made cable

Input Devices (Keyboards, Mice, Etc.)

I'll give recommendations, but these sorts of things are the most user-decisive of any components for a PC. What do you need, what do you want, what is pretty? I tend to go basic, but if you like those fancy Zboard keyboards, go for it!

Wired vs. Wireless

All wireless solutions require batteries which make the device sometimes twice as heavy. These batteries are expensive and need to be consistently recharged, if they are the recharge type to begin with. The different wireless standards require strict distances between device and source with little to no interruptions, and even then the recommendations are stretched in my opinion.

Bluetooth is a decent, although not perfect wireless standard that I could recommend. The trouble with Bluetooth is its extremely expensive. A Mouse for $50 is already insane, so try shopping around for a decent Bluetooth one for under $100! Unless you separate the device and receive by a foot or two as you might in a portal laptop situation, wired devices are the way to go for now.

Berek's Input Devices Recommendations

• Keyboard: Microsoft Digital Media Pro BX1-00005 2-Tone Keyboard
• Mouse: Logitech MX518 Gaming-Grade Mouse
• Mouse Pad: XTRAC Ripper Optical Mouse pad
• Game Pad: Logitech 963326-0403 Cordless RumblePad 2